Basic Binding Instructions
If you have purchased a Wool Baasket Rug Hooking Kit, all the supplies necessary for binding the finished piece are
included, except for a sewing needle. Due to the great variety of methods used to bind rugs (there is not one "right"
way), here are detailed instructions on the basic whip-stitch method, for which supplies are included in our kits.
included, except for a sewing needle. Due to the great variety of methods used to bind rugs (there is not one "right"
way), here are detailed instructions on the basic whip-stitch method, for which supplies are included in our kits.
STEAMING: When finished hooking the
piece, steam it so it will lay flat. Place the
piece face down on a firm, heat-resistant
surface. Most countertops will work, but use
an old towel in between the piece and the
countertop if you're worried about
bleed-through. Preheat iron to high heat.
Place a damp (wet, but wrung out) washcloth
on top of the piece and press firmly for 2-3
seconds to release steam into the piece.
Using the iron on top of the washcloth only, do
not touch the piece with it. Steam the entire
piece by moving the washcloth and re-wetting
it when necessary. Once the back is done, flip
the piece over and do the front. When
finished, leave the piece to dry -- overnight is
usually a good idea.
TRIMMING: Once steamed and dry, trim
excess foundation, leaving about 1 inch of
foundation around the last row of hooking.
Place piece backside up, then fold the
foundation down toward the backside and
place one end of the binding tape on top of it.
It is best to start this in the middle of one side,
not near a corner. (See Figure 1.)
STARTING: With wool yarn (no more than
about a 5 foot section) threaded through the
bent tapestry needle, place it behind the flap of
foundation and insert it through the foundation
and the binding tape about 1/4 inch from the
edge. Pull the section of yarn through leaving
about 4 inches to tie off. Now insert the needle
at the edge of the hooked piece down into the
area beneath the flap of foundation and pull
excess yarn through. Now lift the flap and tie a
simple knot to secure the yarn. Again, place
the needle behind the flap and bring it up
through the foundation and binding tape right
next to the first stitch, still about 1/4 from the
edge. (See Figure 2.) Now you have gotten
your yarn "started" and can pin down the flap of
foundation and binding tape to the piece to
keep everything from moving around as you
work.
WORKING: Now you're ready to get moving.
Insert the needle at the edge of the hooking
and through to the binding tape, bringing the
tip out at that 1/4 mark you've already
established. (See Figure 3.) Do this
repeatedly, close enough together to cover the
edge of the foundation and the 1/4 inch of
binding tape at the edge. (See Figure 4.) Be
careful not to pull it too tight as you work, as it
will cause the edge of your piece to pucker
and not lay flat. Also be careful not to put the
stitches too close together or too far apart --
just enough to cover the "ugly" edge.
CORNERS: Just when you get going, here
comes a corner! Don't panic, but don't wait
until you get all the way to the corner to deal
with it. When you are getting close (about 2
inches away), stop and get the corner folded
and pinned down. First, fold the tip of the
corner back toward the center of the piece.
(See Figure 5-A.) Then fold the sides down
and pin them in place. (See Figure 5-B.)
Now you're ready to proceed around the
corner, which will be just like stitching the
sides, except that you will tend to use more
stitches, many of them in the same hole, as
you get around the very tip. (See Figure 6.)
ADDING YARN: When you are coming to the
end of your yarn (about 6 inches left), you'll
need to tie in another section to continue
working. First, Insert the needle into the
foundation at the edge of the hooking, as if
you're making another stitch, but instead of
bringing it all the way through, bring it out
underneath the flap of foundation. (See Figure
7-A.) Pull the end of the yarn through and
remove the needle. Begin the new section of
yarn in the same way you started the first
piece, however, you'll tie the new piece to the
tail of the old piece -- under the flap, just like
the first one. (See Figure 7-B.)
ENDING: When you've stitched almost
completely around and have come within 1/2
inch of the starting point, trim the excess
binding tape, leaving enough to go an extra
half inch past the starting point. Fold the extra
half inch back underneath itself (See Figure
8.), pin in place, and stitch the rest of the way.
When finished, bring needle and yarn down
underneath the flap and tie off using the tail
from the starting piece. (See Figure 9.)
piece, steam it so it will lay flat. Place the
piece face down on a firm, heat-resistant
surface. Most countertops will work, but use
an old towel in between the piece and the
countertop if you're worried about
bleed-through. Preheat iron to high heat.
Place a damp (wet, but wrung out) washcloth
on top of the piece and press firmly for 2-3
seconds to release steam into the piece.
Using the iron on top of the washcloth only, do
not touch the piece with it. Steam the entire
piece by moving the washcloth and re-wetting
it when necessary. Once the back is done, flip
the piece over and do the front. When
finished, leave the piece to dry -- overnight is
usually a good idea.
TRIMMING: Once steamed and dry, trim
excess foundation, leaving about 1 inch of
foundation around the last row of hooking.
Place piece backside up, then fold the
foundation down toward the backside and
place one end of the binding tape on top of it.
It is best to start this in the middle of one side,
not near a corner. (See Figure 1.)
STARTING: With wool yarn (no more than
about a 5 foot section) threaded through the
bent tapestry needle, place it behind the flap of
foundation and insert it through the foundation
and the binding tape about 1/4 inch from the
edge. Pull the section of yarn through leaving
about 4 inches to tie off. Now insert the needle
at the edge of the hooked piece down into the
area beneath the flap of foundation and pull
excess yarn through. Now lift the flap and tie a
simple knot to secure the yarn. Again, place
the needle behind the flap and bring it up
through the foundation and binding tape right
next to the first stitch, still about 1/4 from the
edge. (See Figure 2.) Now you have gotten
your yarn "started" and can pin down the flap of
foundation and binding tape to the piece to
keep everything from moving around as you
work.
WORKING: Now you're ready to get moving.
Insert the needle at the edge of the hooking
and through to the binding tape, bringing the
tip out at that 1/4 mark you've already
established. (See Figure 3.) Do this
repeatedly, close enough together to cover the
edge of the foundation and the 1/4 inch of
binding tape at the edge. (See Figure 4.) Be
careful not to pull it too tight as you work, as it
will cause the edge of your piece to pucker
and not lay flat. Also be careful not to put the
stitches too close together or too far apart --
just enough to cover the "ugly" edge.
CORNERS: Just when you get going, here
comes a corner! Don't panic, but don't wait
until you get all the way to the corner to deal
with it. When you are getting close (about 2
inches away), stop and get the corner folded
and pinned down. First, fold the tip of the
corner back toward the center of the piece.
(See Figure 5-A.) Then fold the sides down
and pin them in place. (See Figure 5-B.)
Now you're ready to proceed around the
corner, which will be just like stitching the
sides, except that you will tend to use more
stitches, many of them in the same hole, as
you get around the very tip. (See Figure 6.)
ADDING YARN: When you are coming to the
end of your yarn (about 6 inches left), you'll
need to tie in another section to continue
working. First, Insert the needle into the
foundation at the edge of the hooking, as if
you're making another stitch, but instead of
bringing it all the way through, bring it out
underneath the flap of foundation. (See Figure
7-A.) Pull the end of the yarn through and
remove the needle. Begin the new section of
yarn in the same way you started the first
piece, however, you'll tie the new piece to the
tail of the old piece -- under the flap, just like
the first one. (See Figure 7-B.)
ENDING: When you've stitched almost
completely around and have come within 1/2
inch of the starting point, trim the excess
binding tape, leaving enough to go an extra
half inch past the starting point. Fold the extra
half inch back underneath itself (See Figure
8.), pin in place, and stitch the rest of the way.
When finished, bring needle and yarn down
underneath the flap and tie off using the tail
from the starting piece. (See Figure 9.)
Steaming
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5-B
Figure 5-A
Figure 6
Figure 7-A
Figure 7-B
Figure 8
Figure 9
SEWING THE TAPE: When finished with the
above steps, you will have whip-stitched the
edge of your piece with wool yarn and
attached the outside edge of the binding tape
in the process. The binding tape will cover the
extra flap of foundation when the inside edge
of the tape is sewn down with a sewing needle
and heavy duty thread. Begin at the location
where you started with the whip-stitching,
Picking up a little bit of the hooked piece, as
well as the flap and cut edge of the binding
tape in your first stitch. (See. Figure 10.) Pull
the thread through almost to the end and tie a
knot to begin. Stitch down the cut edge of the
tape and around the corner in the same
direction you did the whip-stitching. (See
Figure 11.) Be sure you pick up a bit of the
hooked foundation on each stitch if possible to
be sure the tape will be sewn securely.
However, be sure not to pull stitches too tightly,
as this may result in a visible depression in the
piece when viewed from the top.
CORNERS AGAIN: Again, there is special
treatment for the corners. In a fashion similar
to what you did with the foundation earlier, fold
the corner of the tape in toward the center
(See Figure 12-A.), and then bring the sides
down. (See Figure 12-B.) When you have
stitched to the point where the two edges of
binding tape meet, stitch the edges together all
the way to the very corner of the piece. (See
Figure 13-A.) When you reach the tip, insert
the needle underneath the tape and run it back
out to the edge of the tape and begin to stitch
down that side to the next corner. (See Figure
13-B.)
ENDING AGAIN: When you've worked
completely around to the place where the you
started, stitch down the folded edge of the
binding all the way to the whip-stitching. (See
Figure 14-A.) Then tie a knot in your thread
(See Figure 14-B.) and insert your needle into
the binding tape and bring it up an inch or two
away, pulling the entire section of thread
through. (See Figure 15.) Pull snuggly on the
thread and use the other hand to push the
binding tape down the thread a little, cutting the
thread just above the tape. This will "hide" the
tail of your thread underneath the binding tape.
STEAMING AGAIN: The binding process can
make a rug pucker. (See Figure 16-A.) To
make the piece lay flat again (See Figure
16-B), steam once again in the same fashion
as before, let dry completely and you're ready
to enjoy the finished piece!
above steps, you will have whip-stitched the
edge of your piece with wool yarn and
attached the outside edge of the binding tape
in the process. The binding tape will cover the
extra flap of foundation when the inside edge
of the tape is sewn down with a sewing needle
and heavy duty thread. Begin at the location
where you started with the whip-stitching,
Picking up a little bit of the hooked piece, as
well as the flap and cut edge of the binding
tape in your first stitch. (See. Figure 10.) Pull
the thread through almost to the end and tie a
knot to begin. Stitch down the cut edge of the
tape and around the corner in the same
direction you did the whip-stitching. (See
Figure 11.) Be sure you pick up a bit of the
hooked foundation on each stitch if possible to
be sure the tape will be sewn securely.
However, be sure not to pull stitches too tightly,
as this may result in a visible depression in the
piece when viewed from the top.
CORNERS AGAIN: Again, there is special
treatment for the corners. In a fashion similar
to what you did with the foundation earlier, fold
the corner of the tape in toward the center
(See Figure 12-A.), and then bring the sides
down. (See Figure 12-B.) When you have
stitched to the point where the two edges of
binding tape meet, stitch the edges together all
the way to the very corner of the piece. (See
Figure 13-A.) When you reach the tip, insert
the needle underneath the tape and run it back
out to the edge of the tape and begin to stitch
down that side to the next corner. (See Figure
13-B.)
ENDING AGAIN: When you've worked
completely around to the place where the you
started, stitch down the folded edge of the
binding all the way to the whip-stitching. (See
Figure 14-A.) Then tie a knot in your thread
(See Figure 14-B.) and insert your needle into
the binding tape and bring it up an inch or two
away, pulling the entire section of thread
through. (See Figure 15.) Pull snuggly on the
thread and use the other hand to push the
binding tape down the thread a little, cutting the
thread just above the tape. This will "hide" the
tail of your thread underneath the binding tape.
STEAMING AGAIN: The binding process can
make a rug pucker. (See Figure 16-A.) To
make the piece lay flat again (See Figure
16-B), steam once again in the same fashion
as before, let dry completely and you're ready
to enjoy the finished piece!
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12-A
Figure 12-B
Figure 13-B
Figure 13-A
Figure 14-B
Figure 14-A
Figure 15
Figure 16-A
Figure 16-B
For assistance or to place an order, call 1-573-308-0127 or email
debbie@whimsyrugs.com.
debbie@whimsyrugs.com.
| BINDING INSTRUCTIONS |
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Whimsy Rug Hooking 12650 Hwy M P.O. Box 567 Wright City, MO 63390 573-308-0127 debbie@whimsyrugs.com |